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martin

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  1. Najprej o servisu, sramota za servis, da v tem ?asu ne stori ni? drugega, kot samo resteira ra?unalnik in re?e, za to je kriv na?in vo?nje. ?e uvoznik dopu??a tak?no ravnanje, potem res lahko za?nemo na?e avtomobilo voziti v tujino. V tem ?asu bi morali filter pzamenjati, pregledati komplet sistem vbrizgavanja goriva, vso napeljavo in ostalo elektronsko kramo. Ker ?e ra?unalnik ne poka?e napake, to ne pomeni, da vse pravilno deluje, saj lahko ra?unalnik me?a napa?no zmes goriva in si "misli" da je vse O.K.

    Malo spremljam problematiko DPF tudi na tujih forumih, in tudi tam imajo nekateri probleme s tem. So pa imeli tudi nekateri napako na sistemu vbrizgavanja/me?anja goriva.

    ?e malo bere? ?e kak?en forum (Ford, Opel Zafira, VW-Touran), vidi?, da imajo tudi pri ostalih znamkah dolo?eni

    probleme s tem filtrom. Najhuje je, da nobena od tovarn ne priznava napake in za vse krivijo voznika.

    Dejstvo je, da ta tehnologija ?e ni najbolj zrela za serijsko uporabo in je bila hitro uvedena zaradi samih predpisov Euro4.

     

    Je pa res, da je v Evropi prodanih ogromno dizlov, in generalno res problemov ni, saj bi se druga?e

    kak?en Avto Bild zelo hitro razpisal o tem. Je pa na nas voznikih, da pazimo na na?in vo?nje, kar je seveda "butasto". Veliko je vsaj v tujini taksistov, ki omenjene avtomobile (tudi Mazdo 6, ki ima enak motor in filter) uporabljajo izklju?no v mestu, pa teh problemov naj ne bi imeli.

     

    Sam sem okleval med Mazdo5 bencinar ali dizel in sem potem vzel dizla. Ni mi ?e ?al, ?eprav vedno tu in tam gledam na ?tevce, kdaj se bo ta "rumeni hudi?" pri?gal in za?el utripati. Trenutno imam po enem mesecu prevo?enih skoraj 3000km in ?e ni bilo problemov "tok-tok", ?eprav je bilo kar nekaj kratkih relacij, pa ?e na poti iz morja sem eno uro ?akal-premikal po pol?evo v koloni. Takrat me je res malo stiskalo, kaj ?e se pri?ge. Je pa res, da ogreta ma?ina v prostem teku, proizvede zelo malo saj in ne more tako hitro zapolniti filtra.

     

    Na odgovore, ki si jih dobil ti, da se lahko lu?ka pri?ge ?e v avtopralnici pri ve?kratnem prestavljanu ("bu?e"), saj ima filter dolo?eno kapaciteto in par v?iganj ga ne sme "zabasati", saj ?e motor v osnovi ustreza Euro3 predpisom in ni kak?en Golf 2, ki kadi kot stara lokomotiva.

     

    Sicer se je ve?ini lu?ka pri?gala po ve? tiso? kilometrih (6000 ali ve?), kar se lahko razlaga, da je v olju bilo ?e ve? dizla (na ?ipki se nivo bli?a tisti magi?ni oznaki 'X'), in tudi to vpliva na filter. Ker se nekateri tudi prito?ujejo na porastom nivoja olja ?e po par tiso? km. Nivo olja oz. dizel v olju, se pove?a predvsme pri kratkih relacija, kjer avto ?e ni ogret oz. pri ve?kratnih v?igih/uga?anjih, kjer neizgorelo gorivo preide iz cilindrov v olje.

    Tudi meni, je nivo olja porastel pri kratkih relacijah, potem pa je po dolgi spet padel. Zakaj! Motor se je ogrel in to temeljito, saj sem ga malo bolj gnal, s tem pa je za?elo gorivo izparevat iz olja in nivo olja je spet malo padel.

     

    ?e malo o delovanju DPF filtra.

    Delovanje filtra je zelo odvisno od kvalitete goriva. Naj bi se uporabljalo gorivo(dizel) po standardu EN-590 z vsebnostjo ?vepla najve? 50 ppm(v EU obvezno od 2005). Ve? ?vepla posledi?no pomeni tudi ve? saj, zato je v teh avtomobilih potrebno tudi imeti olje z nizko vsebnostjo ?vepla (DEXELIA DPF ). Bo po letu 2009 bolje, ko se bo v EU dr?avah moral obvezno na vseh bencinskih servisih uporabljati dizel brez ?vepla oz. do 10 ppm, kar po posledi?no pomenilo tudi manj sajastih delcev.

    Filter ima vgrajena dva(?) tla?na senzorja. Ko se nabere dolo?ena koli?ina saj, se tlak v izpuhu pove?a in s tem dobi motorna elektronika "ukaz", da potreba po izgorevanj(regeneraciji) filtra. V normalnih razmerah voznik tega naj ne bi opzail, razen malenkost pove?ane porabe. v prostem teku, recimo pred semaforjem, je to opazno kot pove?ano ?tevilo obratov motorja, malo pod 1000.

    ?e v ?asu regeneracije motor ustavimo, se le-ta nadaljuje, ko spet naslednji? za?enemo motor in so izpolnjeni vsi pogoji (temp. motorja ipd). ?e normalna regeneracija ni mo?na, se pri?ge lu?ka DPF (filter poln ve? kot 80%), kar pomeni, da je potrebno ukrepati, tako, kot pi?e v knjigi nad 2000 obr/min in ve? kot 40 km/h. ?e pride do polne zapacanosti filtra, za?ne lu?ka DPF utripati, motorna mo? se zmanj?a in potrebno je obiskati servis. V primeru, da se ?e nekaj ?asa vozimo, se lahko filter popolnoma uni?i tj. ne gre ve? "s?istiti". Na ?alost se zaradi ekologije pove?a povpre?na poraba. Pri meni se giblje nekje okoli 7,2 na 100 km.

     

    V vsakem primeru, pa je ta postopek mo?no odvisen od eleketronike in vse tovarne, ki uporabljajo DPF, so

    ?e izdelale popravke za elektroniko, kjer pa? spreminjajo dolo?ene parametre. Dokon?ne re?itve pa ?al ni. Smo pa? poskusni zaj?ki :(.

     

    Re?itev je, da se filter odstrani, saj se pri nas ne pla?uje manj davka zaradi filtra. Pri tem tla?ni senzor ne bo zaznal tlaka, kar tudi ne bo dodatnega vbrizganja goriva in problem bo re?en. Vsi se izgovarjajo na garancijo. Za sebe vem, da po preteku garancije gre ta filter ven, razen ?e res ne bo problemov.

    Zvonko, izgleda da ima? res ponedeljkov avto in ti ga nemudoma morajo zamenjati. Filter so ti ?e menjali ali ne? Jaz bi zraven pripeljal novinarje (recimo AvtoMagazin), kjer bi spremljai tvojo zgodbo in jo

    seveda objavili. Kontakiraj ?e MMS, kje imajo vodjo tehni?ne slu?be, ki bi se naj tudi spoznal na te zadeve.

     

    Lep pozdrav,

    Bojan

     

    Hello from Czech republic,

    as I am reading your "DPF forum", I see that you have the same problems with DPF like me. At aprox. 6500 km DPF switch on the light, and I should go at more than 40 km/h and 2000 rpm/min in order that it disappear. Several times it helped, but later DPF start blinking. My Mazda dealer said, that I was going in the town, that it is my problem and I should pay cca 160 EUR for the procedure of cleaning of DPF and especially for changing expensive Dexelia oil (it was diluted by fuel oil). I hoped that this problem is solved and won´t never repeat and on recommendation of dealer start driving at more rpm. But the DPF start ligthing more frequently and finally start again blinking (at aprox. 13000 km). Since I was sure, that it is not my mistake, I wasnt´t ready to pay again for clearing filter (my car has 3 years garancy) - I asked my dealer and then Czech Mazda representation, if they have any reasonable solution. From they answer I feld, that they are not able to solve it, so I decided to turn off DPF by myself.

    It is not so easy, since there is catalyst (in frontal) and DPF filter in one unit. We should cut the unit in half (carefully in order not to destroy catalyst), than make several holes into DPF (with 18 mm drill) and then boil unit together. After that, I went to Mazda dealer in order to reset ECU (DPF was still blinking remembering that the active regeneration didn´t pass sucesfully). After reseting ECU I was really happy, but only for about 50 km, when DPF start blinking - as I found out later, it was caused by pressure sensors, which measures pressure diference before and after DPF (after destroying DPF the pressure on both sides was same and the electronic recognized holes in DPF). We solved it by removing of pipe before catalyst where are aproximatelly same pressures like before DPF (in case when DPF is empty). Then the problem seemed to be solved but after aprox. 60 km it started again blinking. After another 20 km, I stopped engine and start again and it was going without blinking cca 250 km. Then again blinking DPF, repeated switching of engine off and on didn´t helped. But after stopping engine after aprox. 150 km, and switching again on DPF didn´t appear by now. I made several trips (from short in town to longer) - total aprox. 350 km.

    I am nearly believing that ECU "adapted" to damaged DPF...

    I thing, that the main possitives of destrying of DPF are:

    - the DPF won´t never switch on the light (PM aren´t acumulated in DPF, so the pressure on sensor isn´t increasing) - due to low pressure in DPF, ECU won´t make any active regeneration (no additional post injections and related problem with increasing level of oil - diluted by fuel-oil) + better consumption

    The main negatives are:

    - maybe I lost the warranty on car (for certain on DPF)

    - I´m not sure, if (and how often) will DPF start blinking

    - my car isn´t now so ecological

     

    I will be grateful to anybody, who send me his own experiences with DPF. In my service manual (part 8-18) I read, that after changing oil must be reseted engine ECU - I want to change oil by myself (there are cheaper alternatives to original Mazda Dexelia - specifications ACEA-C1 or JASO DL-1) and I don´t want to go to Mazda dealer. DO YOU KNOW ANY TRICK HOW TO RESET IT BY MYSELF? :D

    I wish you a lot of happy km and hope, that will be soon found some reasonable sollution of DPF problem.

    Martin

    My e-mail: muj.samojed@seznam.cz

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