torstorm

filter sem menjal, delo pa je trajalo 2 uri.Te?ko je priti zraven ,zato mora? ven vzeti akumulator, pa spodnji podstavek.Najte?je je priti zraven s kle??ami da lahko stisne? ?pange na gumijasti cevi na filtru in jih pomakne? pa cevi vstran od filtra.

saj, jaz sem mislil enako.?e gledamo da ti da to zraven dodatne HP, je dosti bolj poceni kot N2O.Imamo kakega poskusnega zaj?ka ?

ve kdo kje se lahko naro?i pa pribli?no ceno ? Samo glede nadomestka za mx-5 ta verjetno dosti bol trga, ?e zaradi wankla.

cena za bencinski filter je 2300 sit, je pa od japanparts(original) v GMT v Murski Soboti.Nahaja se polek servooja?evalca za bremze pod pokrovom motorja. Pametno ga je menjati vsaj na 100k km, ker ti lahko v drugem primeru gre benz ?rpalka.

hudooooooo.... TO BI JAZ MEL.

Na tujih straneh sem zasledil da na dragih na mazdah uporabljajo vodo ki jo vbrizgajo pod pritiskom nad 9 barov v sesalni del pri filtru.To naj pove?a mo? okrog 30% .Pi?e da voda mo?no ohladi vstopni zrak, zato mora? v vodo dati tudi majhen procent metanola(ali podobne snovi) da ne zmrzne in se ne nabere na stenah. ?E JE KDO ?E SLI?AL ZA KAJ PODOBNEGA NAJ NAPI?E!!!!!!!!!!! Evo povzetek ?lanka : Aquamist and Water injection; Aquamist injects water into the inlet system somewhere under pressures up to 145 psi or 10bar. This has the affect of increasing the knock resistance of the system by removing heat ..however it also displaces oxygen molecules and so reduces the potential energy available .. hence less power. So there is a balancing trick going on .. add water to reduce the knock .. then advance timing to extract more energy from the mixture (if your spark goes off at TDC it is too late and most of the energy is wasted .. you need to do it up to 40 BTDC to allow the peak combustion pressure to occur at or just before TDC .. this maximizes the extraction of energy). Hence water injection is good for a fixed displacement supercharger (it cannot displace oxygen and pulls lots of heat out of the system ? so more oxygen in a cooler form gets into combustion chamber).. but be warned that when the water runs out.. your engine will knock and over heat very rapidly .. so it is considered a dubious system by many professional turbo installers. (I?ve got it .. maximise the knock resistance with higher boost pressures on cheap fuels while retaining stock CR for off boost response/torque at sub 2000 rpm) See here anyway; http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ "It seems water injection knocks the peak off the pressure spike. The pressure plateaus instead of peaking. This is if I was looking at a graph of the cyl. pressure. The burning will be extended so advancing the timing while injecting the water should be done to compensate for the slower burn. As the engine revs the water injected will stay the same while the air flow increases. In other words, the water will 'lean out' at higher rpm. Don't drown the engine by using too large of nozzle. The water can be used to increase boost or timing. I like to think of water injection as "artificial octane". If you spray the water before the throttle you must use some alcohol as an antifreeze as the throttle could freeze open. Because of the suppressed boost spike, I believe the water injection will be easier on the head gasket than without it. Also, I saw a pic of a disassembled Miata motor that used water injection. It was free of carbon! Another battle won against detonation. My unit is home made and I use a 50/50 mix of water and methanol. I inject 150cc/minute of the boost fluid starting at 4 psi. The Aqua Mist should be setup downstream of the IC to allow the IC to work with some differential temps before the water/alcohol mist cools it further. You will need some alcohol because of the possibility of the throttle freezing open. Always use distilled water so minerals don't build up on the nozzle. The nozzle should be the smallest possible. I'd suggest getting a .4mm as the smallest offered is .5mm with the kit and there is no benefit in drowning the engine. I only inject 75cc/minute of water, the other half is alcohol, a 118 octane fuel. You can (and should) advance the timing 2* to 3* for each 100cc of water injected. Here's some COOL numbers I came up with from an engineering book. Gasoline, at stoich, cools the charge 40*F. Methanol, at stoich, cools the charge mixture 300*F. I think water cools 3 times what methanol does per volume. " Tom Graham (DIY on a S/C) http://www.oregonloftbed.com/tomt "Being only the person on the list with a turbo that uses water injection on a full time bases now I thought I would speak up on the subject. First I don't use just water as to reduce knock. I use water/methonal mix to reduce EGT which is the problem with any F/I engine being rotary or piston. It is not the pressure loads that destroy engines it is the thermal load that burn valves and rings. If you increase the pressure the heat must also increase, but by using a water/methonal mix my intake temps at 19 psi of boost never go 10 degrees above the outside temps and often remain cooler then the cabin temps. At 17 psi and the biggest intercooler that Corky sells for the miata the engine will ping from time to time And any pinging at all is not acceptable. At 19/20 psi of boost with water/Alcohol injection I get no pinging at all and you can feel the water kick in at 12-13 psi of boost. And you feel the water increase with an increase of torque. I don't recommend the Spearco unit; I and others have used the Aquamist water injection with great success. Yes it would be better if I used 110 octane gas. And also while the car is running in N/A mode (most of the time on the street) the 110 octane gas is not best in the world for the engine. Further at 5-6 dollars a gallon gets a bit pricey after a while. There are other ways to decrease intake temps, but often these increase EGT. Which in turn kills your engine. Having a sliding scale for my the octane of my fuel. I have the best both a lower streetable octane with the some of the benefits of race gas. Believe or not there a lot more cars out there with water injection but they just call it an EGR valve. A major part of the exhaust gas is water used to reduced EGT. Which allows high compression engine to past emission guide lines. Which are becoming more and more common even with turbocharging!!" root root@localhost.localdomain http://www.autospeed.com/C_articles/A_0578/P_1/article.html has Aussie rad spray water cooler

bil v GMT in kupil modre LED za pozicijske.Vozil sem se mimo policajev pono?i ve?krat pa ni?.COOL. Vgradil sem tudi ve? LEDic v vrsto na notranji strani pod nogami ki svetijo na pedale.Pono?i zgleda dobro.Moram z digitalcem pono?i slikati . Amaturko sem preoblekel v belo usnje, (prej pobarvano, pa je delovalo preve? plasti?no).Dela dosti, precej z********e, vendar se spla?a.Zgleda fenomenalno. Slike pridejo ?imprej.

pod 7 sploh ne bo nikdar ?rl, tam okrog 7,6 pri mirni vo?nji, druga?e pa okrog 9 ?e tera?.

naro?i? lahko v slo ,cena ene lu?i pa je okrog 30k sit . http://www.olef-sp.si/ Lp

mislim da bo pri?lo okrog 50k sit.Zobati jermen, pa te ?e se menjajo zraven napenjalci (okrog 20k),olje 12k pribli?no,delo,olje za menjalnik 7k,...Ventili pa se mislim da sami nastavljajo.Ali nima? hidravli?nih ?

mazda 6 ma ?e pu??eno serijsko tudi na levi strani za izpuh.Tako da bi lahko mel na vsaki strani enega.?e ti ni dale?, ti naredi vredu izpuh, ali pa nastavek gor v Murski Soboti na ?koda servisu.Tam se en tip samo ukvarja z izpu?nimi sistemi.Meni je delal kompleten izpuh na 323c pa je narejeno vredu.Pa niti ni drag.Ma pa ?e tam nekaj nastavkov.

jap bom pri?el jutri v ms, samo ?e ne vem ?e s svojim avtom ali kre kolega.Diod mi ni treba? vzeti saj v GMT dostikrat grem.

kje si to kupil za pozicijo diode ? Jaz nebi rad naro?il iz kataloga ker ?e sedaj ?akam na eno stvar 2 meseca ,pa ?e ni pri?lo.

jaz sem kupil v HTE.Modre pridejo 400sit, druga barva pa po 80 sit kom.dobi? pa jih v dveh izvedbah, ene ki svetijo v snop in druge ki razpr?ijo svetlobo.Vidi? po tem kako dale? sta oddaljeni elektrodi od le?e.Jaz mam rde?e notri. Ti si mel notri modre pravi?, kaj pa z policaji nisi mel nikdar problemov ?

zamenjal sem ?arnice v vratih ,pozicijske lu?i,... skratka vse kjer so 3W3 in 5W5 ?arnice z LED diodami.Ker so originalne za zamenjavo drage (okrog 500 sit do 1k sit ena) sem jih sam priredil za 12 V napetosti.Od uni?enih ?arnic sem vzel podno?je, tako da sem zgornji stekleni del odlomil.Na ?i?ki kjer je prej bila ?arilna nit sem prispajkal DIODO.Ker dioda ni narejena za 12 V sem med katodo diode (?e pogleda? diodo od znotraj ve?ji del) in eno ?i?ko na podno?ju prispajkal upor 560 Ohm.Upor je majhen mo?i 0,25 W saj tu te?e majhen tok.Nato sem zaradi robustnosti zalil s teko?o plastiko (pi?tolo ki greje plastiko) od diode pa do podno?ja.cena izdelave ene diode je sedaj 89 SIT (80sit dioda + 9sit upor).

probaj nasnemati mp3 kot mp3 disk in ne samo kot data cd.Probaj ?e ti tako sploh dela.Jaz mam en radio (ne avtoradio) ki je tudi samo za navaden cd pa ko dam notri mp3 disk ne ?pila ?as pa ka?e isto kot pri tebi.

tnx, bom vpra?al v saturnusu, druga?e pa zaj tak ko smo v EU grem v avstrijo na odpad iskat.

od katerega letnika naprej so mazde pocinkane in katere ?

sem ?e razdrl ja.Najbolj je bilo te?ko spraviti steklo od zadnjega dela.Segreval sem z fenom 2 uri med tem pa se mi je celo ve?krat pregrel.Steklo sem dobro spucal parabolo pa tudi.Nisem vedel da se naparjena snov(srebro ali kaj je pa?)tako slabo gor dr?i in hitro dol zbri?e?.Malo se pozna tudi zaradi ?arnic, mel sem notri 100W pa se je preve? segrevalo.Probal sem z krom sprayom pa je bol sivo kot srebrno, tako kot si napisal.Sli?al sem da nekje v murski kromirajo plastiko, se moram pozanimati. Na servisu sem vpra?al koliko pridejo lu?i, pa me je skoraj vrglo ko sem sli?al.Ena pride 80k sit.

alo, ve kdo s ?im bi lahko pobarval parabolo da se bo ?imbol svetila.

Ve kdo za kake prednje lu?i od mazde 323 C 1995 letnik.Lahko je zlomljeno prednje steklo,rabim samo parabole (na mojih ni ve? odseva svetlobe, se je dol znucala srebrna plast).

koliko vem se dobi ?e pri nas samo 2.3, druga ?portna izvedba pa ?e pride, samo ne V6.

aha, ?e razumem.tnx.

Na tem naslovu sem zasledil ,da pri ?portnem filtru mora? premostiti ?ice na diagnose priklju?ku TEN in GND : http://www.mazda-community.de/forum/thread...8127dd41f828c95 ?e ma kdo kake izku?nje s tem in ali je bolj zastopil to stvar zakaj je to sploh potrebno naj se razpi?e.

sem vozil mazdo 3 z 2.0 ma?ino (sport verzija) lega na cesti je odli?na, v ovinkih to?no ve? kam ti nese avto, motor pa je dovolj zmogljiv in dobro vle?e v vi?jih obratih.Pri tem motorju ma? VIS tehnologijo (variable induction system), ki deluje kot en mali turbo in se pove?a navor v vi?jih obratih, kot tudi spremenljivo geometrijo ventilov.Jaz ti priporo?am ta avto. Najbolj?e pa je da se sam pelje? s tem avtom in sam presodi?.