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Ali je kdo ?e probal ali v evropskih verzijah deluje ta menjava?  Ali bi bilo mo?no uporabiti komponente iz mazde 6? 

 

Paziti pri demonta?i in monta?i AIRBAGA

 

http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=243917

 

Introduction

My biggest regret after taking delivery of my 2006 Mazda 3 Sport GS (Canada) was the lack of cruise control. I simply could not afford the 1500$ premium for the GT model. I originally thought I could later add an aftermarket cruise control until I realized the Mazda 3 featured a "Throttle-by-wire" system. Therefore the 'cruise control' is mostly operated by software (ECU). 

I am not aware of any aftermarket system readily available for 'throttle-by-wire' applications, although in theory it would be very simple: the aftermarket module would simply need to monitor few sensors and then intercept and modify the signal going from the throttle pedal position sensor to the ECU when in 'cruise' condition. No mechanical parts would be required.

My Mazda dealer told me it was not possible to add the factory cruise control on a non-equipped model. However, upon additional research, I found few guys on http://www.mazda3quebec.com/ that had their local dealership successfully add the factory cruise control. According to those reports, the software and cables are all in place already. The only things required are:

  •  
  • The module with the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel (comes attached to the module with the radio buttons on the same wires/connector);
  • A "cruise control" compatible brake 'stoplight switch'.

Those users had the system installed at the dealership for around $300-$350. Parts alone can be found new at discounted price online for about $125 and the installation seems quite easy. I went one step further and actually found a complete used steering wheel with cruise controls for $35+$10 shipping. At that price, it was worth the try! Total investment for me, including the new stoplight switch: about $50. 

I can now confirm that the information was accurate: I successfully added the factory cruise on my 2006 Hatchback (Canadian Model). The installation was really quick and easy. Find all the information required and installation procedure below.


Confirmed success (compatibility): 

* ** * (PM me if you have additional compatibility reports for me)


[glow=red,2,300]Disclaimer[/glow]

I do not have the credentials to offer automotive advice.* The modification procedure that follows explains how I chose to approach a modification I wanted to make to my personal car.* I am not suggesting that anyone else make this modification to his or her vehicle.* In the event anyone chooses to accept the responsibility of initiating a similar vehicle modification, they should do so with the understanding it could result in undesired damage to their vehicle and could void the warrantee provided by the vehicle manufacturer.* In addition, I wish to point out that undertaking any vehicle modification without proper knowledge, experience, tools, and safety equipment can result in personal injury and/or death.* This is especially true here, where the Airbag module on the driver side has to be temporarily removed in order to install some of the parts. I highly recommend that you have a dealership or competent garage install the parts.

Also, I don?t claim to be the originator of this modification. The following is a summary of the information required to perform the modification. The idea is to have the convenience of having all the required information located in one place. The original information was found on http://www.mazda3quebec.com/ and http://www.mazda3forums.com/ .* This procedure is a combination of those indications, helpful hints and pictures resulting from my own personal experience. Special thanks to 'charlano' on http://www.mazda3quebec.com/ for answering all my questions...

Parts Required:

  •  
  • BN7N-66-490 Brake switch for vehicles with cruise ~$6
  • BN8P-66-4M0 Steering switches for vehicles with cruise ~$119

* * *parts.jpg

  Report this image


Where to buy the parts:

- used: http://www.car-part.com ($40 to $100?, mostly interesting for the cruise steering switches)
- New:

Tools Required:

  •  
  • Small flat hear screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver

  • 10mm socket (battery, airbag)

  • 13/16" socket to remove the steering wheel

Time Required:

  •  
  • 20-30 minutes

Procedure

1. Orient the steering wheel so that the wheels of the vehicle are positioned to move in straight line.

2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the car Battery using a 10mm socket;

3. Open the headlight switch and pump the brake pedal a few times to help drain any power left in the circuit.

4. Wait enough to make sure that any capacitive load in the electrical circuit had some time to be drained out before removing the airbag (2-3 hours? maybe not necessary, but why take a chance??)* Use that time to swap the brake switch:

5. Brake Switch Replacement

* * *a. Locate the switch right above the brake pedal as shown.
* * *b. Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing on the release tab;
* * *c. To remove the switch, twist it like an 1/8 of a turn as shown, then pull it out;
* * *brake_switch.jpg

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* * *d. Apply reverse procedure to install the new switch. 

6. Airbag Removal (Please read disclaimer above!!! Again, I higly recomment you have a dealership or a competent garage do the part of the install involving the airbag. Improper handling or a static discharge could set it off resulting in expensive damage, injury or even death. I do not pretend that the procedure explained here is adequate or complete to remove & re-install the airbag.):

* * *a. Remove the 2 rubber plugs on each side of the steering wheel body, as shown below;
* * *airbag_bolts.jpg

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* * *b. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 bolts holding the airbag in place;
* * *c. Pull the airbag assembly out carefully;
* * *d. Disconnect the electrical connectors of the airbag assembly: there are 2 connectors to disconnect. Pull the black locking tab using a small flathead screwdriver then pull the connector as shown;
* * *airbag.jpg

  Report this image


* * *e. Safely store away (face up) the airbag until you ready for re-assembly.

7. Steering Wheel Removal
* * *a. Disconnect the wires of the steering switches;
* * *b. Using a 13/16" socket, remove the bolt clamping the steering wheel;
* * *c. Once the bolt removed, the steering wheel should pull out easily (I did not need a puller).

8. To replace the switch panels, you need to remove the back cover of the steering wheel. 2 screws must be removed from the back, then release the 2 tabs from the front side.
* * *back.jpg

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9. Remove the old switch panels on either sides of the steering wheel and replace them with the new switch modules. They are held by a screw from the back side of the steering wheel. Pay attention to how the wires are routed and use the same approach for the new switches.
* * *done.jpg

  Report this image


10. Carefully re-assemble everything using reverse procedure, re-connect the battery and go for a test drive to verify that everything is working properly.

Enjoy!

Za vse vaše ideje urejanja okolice   www.gabioni.si

 

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  • Zadnja sporočila

    • Pozdravljeni. Rad bi delil svojo izkušnjo z servisiranjem turbine pri serviserju turbin iz Zgornjih Pirnič.  Verjamem, da ima podjetje veliko zadovoljnih strank, vendar je moja izkušnja ravno obratna.  V koncu lanskega leta sem peljal avto na menjavo jedra turbine.  Pa treh dneh in 850€ računa ter garancijo, avto odpeljem.  Dva dni kasneje opazim, da mi pušča olje in manjka plastika pokrova motorja.  Avto pripeljem nazaj k omenjenu servisu, nakar ugotovimo, da je čep olja pretegnjen in navoji pobrani.  Serviser(lastnik) je vrezal nov navoj na karter, brez odstranjevanja karterja (prisoten sesalec), takrat sva oba opazila, da je karter udrt iz spodnje strani in je bil njegov komentar, da to ni treba gledat in najverjetneje ni tak problem.  Čeprav tri dni staro olje je stočil v staro obrisano kanto in mi ga brez kakršnega koli filtra zlil nazaj v motor  (preden je stočil olje sem vprašal če bo dal novo olje, kar je izignoreral). Po menjavi olja in 20min iskanja pokrova motorja po delavnici se brez stroškov odpeljem.    Olje je iz čepa še naprej puščalo, dokler mi ni popravil drug mehanik. Po poslanem smsu serviserju turbine, da olje še vedno pušča, nisem dobil nobenega odgovora.    V marcu spusti tesnilo med kolektorjem in turbino. Mehanik ugotovi, da naležna površina kolektorja ni bila očiščena, da manjka vijak nosilca turbine in da so se vijaki prirobnice zaradi vibracij odtegnili.    V aprilu se spet sliši žvižganje turbine.  Z serviserjem se dogovorimo, da nabavi novo jedro, izrecno sem večkrat povedal, da hočem menjavo pod garancijo,  sem pa pripravljen doplačat za morebitne dodatne stroške.  Ko ponovno pripeljem avto je bilo serviserju očitno, da je spet potrebna menjava jedra. Po 8ih dneh in večkratnem ignoriranju mi sporoči,  da je razlog za prehitro obrabo udrt karter, s tem je bilo pomanjkanje mazanja in da bo cena servisa 650€.  Po pregovarjanju prek telefona in omembi vseh problemov je ceno spustil na 550€.  Ko prevzamem vozilo mi pove da je karter popravil z dilo in kladivom, mi spusti ceno na 500€  in pravi, da če hočem novo garancijo za novo jedro, to stane dodatnih 100€.    Na lastni garanciji ima napisano, da je potrebno pri menjavi jedra narediti tlačni test olja. Ko sem ga postavil pred dejstvo ali  je naredil tlačni test in kje se nahaja senzor tlaka olja na motorju, se je izmikal, na koncu NI vedel kje je dotični senzor  in je priznal, da v obeh primerih servisa NI naredil tlačneg testa olja. Če bi se tlačni test naredil, bi že ob prvem servisu ugotovil, da ni dovolj mazanja in predlagal menjavo karterja.   Z dolgoletnimi izkušnjami in dejstvom, da je karter poškodovan, je vedel, da po ponovno potrebna predčasna menjava jedra turbine.   Dodatno je od sebe dal konkretno umazan avto od črnih rok po haubi, blatnikih in voznikovih vratih. Sprednja maska je bila spraskana in predvidevan, da so jo metali po peščenem dvorišču. Poslal sem sms s sliko spraskane maske, na kar ponovno ni bilo nobenega odgovora.    Vse bralce tega foruma prosim, da so previdni pri izbiri servisa v Zgornjih Pirničah.
    • Sem se kr oddahnil ker un brez lopate ni dost podoben meni.
    • Ufff, pri 4000 obratih bi mel 240km/h not, če bi šlo po kakem klancu navzdol. Pa 90% bi bilo pri 4750 obratih. Je pa res kot praviš...Zoe za mesto, absolutno da, za regionalke OK, za AC pa dejansko NE zato me kar mal čudi, da s tem kinderjajčkom voziš relacije. Pa pustmo porabe in polnjenja. Avto ni udoben za take vožnje in kr neprijetno utruja.
    • Ufff, living dengerously 😜 A to je zate dovolj zaloge? 10%, če je mal neroden teren si mogoče na 20km dometa. Ja če na prvi polnilnici najdeš plac in deluje je Ok, kaj pa če moraš do naslednje ali pa celo do tretje? Pol pa že mal ritko stiska.   Zame je še vedno preveč kompromisa tole in ko poslušam, kako je treba planirat poti imet postanke se spomnim časov mojega fotra, ko nas je peljal v Pulo v kamp, kjer se je dva dni intenzivno pripravljal na ta "podvig" dolg neverjetnih 200km. Pa kje se bomo ustavili, pa da bo preventivno tankal, pa da smo mel vodo s sabo, če se avto pokvari, pa avtokarte pa ne vem kaj še vse. Dobri stari časi, ki se nekako vračajo.   Aja, sem se preveč vživel in grem zdajle tankat, ker mi kaže domet "samo še" 235km        
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