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Zavore mazda 6 2016

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Pozdravljeni. Vceraj sem zamenjal gume in razdrl zavore. Desni disk je spet malo zvit, sem zmeril z merilno urico, pesta je ok ni zvita.to je sedaj ze tretjic da je desni disk zvit, levi je ok. Ob razstavljanju sem ugitovil da je spodnjo vodilo ki ima na koncu gumjasto puso zapikan, komaj se premika. Tudi ob ciscenju in ponovni montazi je enako, sedaj bom narocil nova vodila, ker zgleda je nekaj s to gumi puso ce jo odstranim se giba normalno. Na levi strani pa deluje super. Mislim da sem odkriv vzrok menjave treh diskov.

 

Ja to je najve?krat problem z zavorami, se nabere umazanija ali pa ni ve? masti v vodilih in pol ?tekajo ?eljusti in posledi?no zjebe disk.

Jst vsako pomlad ko menjam letne gume razderem zavore jih o?istim in nama?em vodila, pa do sedaj ?e na nobenem avtu nisem imel te?av z zavorami.

 

Aja pa to sem ?e pozabil, vodila nama?i obvezo z silikonsko mastjo, ker navadna mast ti raz?ere gumice!

Jst mam od TRW-ja PFG110 silikonsko mast, ostale nale?ne povr?ine kjer se zavorna  plo??ica nalega v zavorno ?eljust pa nama?em z bakreno mastjo.

 

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2008 Mazda 6

2004 Mazda 3

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Jaz imam od boscha mast in jo sumim da zna se poslabsat zadevo, naj bi bila za vodila ampak ko miruje kr zalepi skupaj potem ko se razmiga je spet ok. Bom nabavil tp trw mast. Drugace pa je sedaj ko sem namazal tudi tisto pokanje ob mali hitrosti zaviranju in zavijanju potihnilo. Mazes obojno vodilo sisto s puso in tisto brez? Ker to ko ima gumi puso se naj nebi mazalo.

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Jaz imam od boscha mast in jo sumim da zna se poslabsat zadevo, naj bi bila za vodila ampak ko miruje kr zalepi skupaj potem ko se razmiga je spet ok. Bom nabavil tp trw mast. Drugace pa je sedaj ko sem namazal tudi tisto pokanje ob mali hitrosti zaviranju in zavijanju potihnilo. Mazes obojno vodilo sisto s puso in tisto brez? Ker to ko ima gumi puso se naj nebi mazalo.

Tisto ko pride vodilo v gumi pu?o se ma?e z silikonsko mastjo.

Sem ti pripel slikco.

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2008 Mazda 6

2004 Mazda 3

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A tisto z gumo da? pa na suho noter?

 

Poslano z mojega EML-L29 z uporabo Tapatalk

Za vse vaše ideje urejanja okolice   www.gabioni.si

 

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A tisto z gumo da? pa na suho noter?

Poslano z mojega EML-L29 z uporabo Tapatalk

Katero gumo to misli??

2008 Mazda 6

2004 Mazda 3

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Zdaj ko smo ?e pri teh M6 GJ zavorah, ali mi lahko kateri od vas zmeri razdaljo nosilca zavorne ?eljusti ki pride pri?raufano na pesto?

Rabim ?imbolj natan?no razdaljo in fi luknje.

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2008 Mazda 6

2004 Mazda 3

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dne 13. 5. 2016 ob 19:08 je damci napisal:

so mi danes dali plati??a in gume iz testne 6ke in tresenje je skoraj popolnoma izginilo

Vem da je že stara tema ampak jaz imam isti problem, tresenje pri večji obremenitvi (pospeševanje, hitrost 120-150,...).

Letne original gume, zimske Dunlop, ob vsaki menjavi bilo isto. Sedaj montiral nove felge (original 17) in nove letne gume, mogoče je malo bolje ampak še daleč od tega da bi bilo ok.

 

Je kdo uspel prite stvari do dna, se pravi čisto odpraviti tresenje? Aja, M6 2016, karavan.

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Ok....samo tak stroj nimajo vsi vulkanizerji...:danzoman:

ali pooblaščeni servisi ;)

Obstaja kje v Sloveniji....? Zoom zoom :D

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pred 3 urami je kastro napisal:

Vem da je že stara tema ampak jaz imam isti problem, tresenje pri večji obremenitvi (pospeševanje, hitrost 120-150,...).

Letne original gume, zimske Dunlop, ob vsaki menjavi bilo isto. Sedaj montiral nove felge (original 17) in nove letne gume, mogoče je malo bolje ampak še daleč od tega da bi bilo ok.

 

Je kdo uspel prite stvari do dna, se pravi čisto odpraviti tresenje? Aja, M6 2016, karavan.

Jaz sem na to temo doktoriral. V glavnem, ko sem avto kupil je šel lepo, niti najmanj ni treslo, nikoli. Nato po dveh letih mi je začelo ful tresti, ko sem v šesti brzini (pod obremenitvijo) pospeševal od 110,120 navzgor.Kot,da bi prišlo v neko resoanco vse skupaj. A pri 140 je nehalo. Bil sem pri vulkanizerju, smo kolesa obračali, sprednja nazaj in obratno, trikrat smo balansirali vsa kolesa, sneli pnevmatike dol, jih zavrteli in nazaj gor. Mogoče je bilo malo boljše a ne v redu. Takrat sem pomislil, da je kaj mogoče  narobe z kakimi polosovinami.Nato sem  kupil nove feltne, zimske 17" in nove zimske gume in jih namontiral. Avto je šel kot po olju, niti malo ni tresel. Nečak mi je med pogovorom  rekel, da je imel na BMW - ju podoben problem. Tudi on je bil pri istem vulkanizerju kot jaz. Predlagal mi je drugega, ki je sicer malo dražji, a naj bi imel vrhunski stroj, nov, za balansiranje. In res, ko so mi to zbalansirali, ni bilo več sledu o nikakršne tresenju niti na 19" s starimi gumami. 

Problem pri mnogih vulkanizerjih je ta, da kupijo odslužene stroje za balansiranje kje v Italiji ali pa pri nas in posledično so problemi. Načeloma se da tudi s temi stroji   v redu balansirati, če so feltne res nove, nič zvite in nove gume, ki morajo biti tip-top, se pravi nič ovalne. Moja teorija je, da gume postanejo z leti deformirane in če so precej, jih  lahko dobro centriraš le z vrhunskim strojem, ki upošteva vse parametre. Ali pa niti tako ne in ti ostane samo nakup novih gum. 

 

 

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Sicer malo mimo ampak jest, vedno sam zamenjam gume in jih vulkanizer nacentrira samo takrat, ko, kupim nove gume. Letne gume zamenjam na cca.  4-5 let, zimske imam pa se dlje, vendar jih potem ze zaradi starosti raje zamenjam. Trenutno imam gor zimske gume continental DOT konec 2012 in grejo sedaj v smeti zaradi starosti in ne zaradi profila. Voznja z njimi je popolnoma normalna. Kar hocem povedati je to da mi nikoli ni nic treslo pa so gor original feltne stare vec kot 10 let. Vem da me boste sedaj vsi lincali, kako nevarno zivljenje zivim in oh in sploh, ampak nikdar in nikoli mi ni nic treslo zaradi gum, feltn ali zaradi zavor. Na prvi generaciji je bila ista zadeva. Se pa strinjam, da zna biti to kar "annoying"

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pred 55 minutami je Scr3am napisal:

Sicer malo mimo ampak jest, vedno sam zamenjam gume in jih vulkanizer nacentrira samo takrat, ko, kupim nove gume. Letne gume zamenjam na cca.  4-5 let, zimske imam pa se dlje, vendar jih potem ze zaradi starosti raje zamenjam. Trenutno imam gor zimske gume continental DOT konec 2012 in grejo sedaj v smeti zaradi starosti in ne zaradi profila. Voznja z njimi je popolnoma normalna. Kar hocem povedati je to da mi nikoli ni nic treslo pa so gor original feltne stare vec kot 10 let. Vem da me boste sedaj vsi lincali, kako nevarno zivljenje zivim in oh in sploh, ampak nikdar in nikoli mi ni nic treslo zaradi gum, feltn ali zaradi zavor. Na prvi generaciji je bila ista zadeva. Se pa strinjam, da zna biti to kar "annoying"

Mislim da se razumno obnašaš,saj veš kako je bilo 20 in več let. Vozili smo letne gume pozimi in nikome ništa,poleti pa zlizane do konca pa tudi stare več kot 10let pa je bilo vse ok. Danes pa standard dela to,da mečejo 4 leta stare gume proč z dobrim profilom in onesnažujemo naravo brez potrebe.:party0035:

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    • Automatic gearboxes are patient. They tolerate neglect for months, then fail expensively and all at once. Arranging gearbox and transmission repair in Dubai while the symptoms are still small is the difference between a fluid service and a full rebuild. That patience is precisely the problem. By the time a transmission is obviously broken, the debris from whatever wore out first has already circulated through the valve body and the cooler lines. Catching it early is not a minor saving — it is often the whole cost of the job. The Five Warnings 1.      Delayed engagement. You select D or R and the car pauses for a second or two before it takes up drive. This is usually low or degraded fluid, or falling hydraulic pressure inside the box. It is the earliest and cheapest warning to act on. 2.      Slipping. The engine revs climb but road speed does not follow, most noticeably on an incline or under acceleration. Slipping means clutch packs or bands are no longer holding, and every additional kilometre generates more heat and more wear. 3.      Harsh or flared shifts. A clunk between gears, or a shift that hangs before landing. Sometimes a solenoid or a valve body fault, sometimes worn friction material — but always worth a scan before assuming the worst. 4.      Whining, humming or clunking. A whine that changes pitch with road speed suggests bearing or pump wear. A clunk when engaging drive points to worn mounts or driveline play. Neither improves on its own. 5.      Burnt smell or dark fluid. Healthy automatic transmission fluid is translucent red. Dark brown fluid that smells scorched means it has been overheated and has lost its friction properties. Reddish spots on your parking bay mean a leak, and a gearbox running low on fluid overheats within minutes. Why Dubai Is Hard on Transmissions Heat is the primary enemy of any automatic gearbox, and the UAE supplies it from two directions at once. Ambient temperatures above 45°C reduce the cooler's ability to shed heat, while stop-start traffic on the main arteries keeps the torque converter slipping — the condition in which a transmission generates the most heat and receives the least airflow. Transmission fluid degrades exponentially with temperature. As a rule of thumb, every 10°C rise above the design operating temperature roughly halves fluid life. A gearbox that would comfortably reach 100,000 km in a temperate climate may need attention at half that here. Two habits make it worse. Shifting from drive to reverse before the car has fully stopped loads the clutch packs against forward momentum. And towing or hill-climbing in top gear, rather than locking out the highest ratio, leaves the converter slipping under load for extended periods. The 'Sealed for Life' Myth Several manufacturers describe their transmission fluid as lifetime fill. In practice that means the life of the warranty, and it assumes conditions the Gulf does not provide. Most independent specialists recommend a fluid and filter service every 60,000 to 80,000 km in the UAE, or every 40,000 km for cars that tow, carry heavy loads or spend their lives in traffic. One caveat matters: on a very high-mileage gearbox that has never been serviced, a full flush can occasionally dislodge deposits that were holding worn clutches together. A drain-and-fill, repeated over a few services, is the safer route on a neglected box — and a good workshop will tell you which of the two your car needs. Manual Gearboxes Have Their Own Tells For manual cars, watch for a clutch bite point that has crept unusually high, difficulty selecting a specific gear (second is often first to go as its synchro wears), a grinding sound on engagement, or the engine revving freely as you accelerate in a high gear. A worn clutch caught early is a straightforward replacement; one left until the friction material is gone can damage the flywheel as well. Diagnosis Before Quotation No honest workshop can price a gearbox repair over the phone. Diagnosis involves reading transmission-specific fault codes, checking fluid level, colour and smell, inspecting for leaks at the pan gasket and cooler lines, and a road test through the full range of shifts under varying load. Only then does anyone know whether you are looking at a solenoid, a valve body, a clutch pack or a rebuild. At iTyreCare in Al Quoz, gearbox repair starts from AED 950, with the final figure set by which component has failed and whether the box needs opening. Every repair is quoted in writing before work begins and covered by warranty. Where to Go The workshop is at 1 D65 Al Manara Road East, Al Quoz, Dubai, open daily 9 AM to 9 PM on +971 4 227 9700, rated 4.7 out of 5 from more than 1,180 Google reviews, and equipped for both manual and automatic transmission work across all major brands. For a symptom-by-symptom checklist, read the guide to signs your gearbox needs attention before your next drive.
    • No, včeraj sem gledal Odisejo in ko vidiš kaj vse je v Grčiji, sem rekel, da na dopust tja ne grem.   🤣😂
    • Imamo točno to gumo na MX-30, je že preživela tudi eno zimo. Čez prelaze ni šla, ker je enako 2. avto...sneg pri nas ne vztraja.   Obrabo se omenja kot slabo lastnost, ampak po enem letu še ni opazno...se dela podobno do 10.000 km na leto.
    • A to je edino merilo za nakup?
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